Donkie Stap Safari (O, die donkie!)
Garies, Namaqualand
2nd to 6th October
by Jill Strappini
Hikers:
Derek & Gretta Jones (leaders), Beate & Piet de Villiers, Johnny & Betty Holtzhausen, Lynette & Alan McKendrick, Frances Kirkup, Lucilla Claasen, Sally Jones, Val & Erich Hahn, Dion Westphal, Eileen Ritchie, John & Audrey Tyldesley, Brian & Jill Strappini, Dan & Lorraine Lategan (Mike Bisset had to drop out because of an injury).
Day 1 - 4,7 kms (Monday)
 We converged on Garies (a Khoisan word meaning ‘couch grass’) at midday on Monday. Sonja Jordaan was at the Toeristestal to greet us and provide snacks and drinks. After we had unloaded all the gear and parked the cars, the transport arrived. Sonja and Wouter, plus Wouter’s dad Wollie, were to be our tour guides, facilitators and providers of unheard of luxuries on a hike. They have two 4x4 VW combi’s and a Toyota Land Cruiser which were for the transportation of all our gear and ourselves.
We loaded up and set off on the road to Hondeklip Bay. We stopped off en route at a farm called Sariesaan where we picked up Nelis our photographer (another pleasant surprise). Nelis would be with us for the next two days making a CD and a DVD of our hike.
 We were dropped off to walk the final 3 kms to our camp site. This was a sheltered spot just off the beach at Strandfontein with beautiful views of the sea and the sunset. On the short walk we saw that there were still plenty of flowers and they added to the beauty of the surroundings. It was here that we had our first indication of the organisation and attention to detail that would help to make this hike so special. There was a toilet in a tent, hot water for drinks and for washing, and a kitchen area with lots of little extras such as milk, margarine, condiments, etc. On this first night there was a welcoming tot of sherry. Sonja explained all the ‘rules’ and Wollie was given the job of explaining the various toilet options (with actions) if the toilet tent is occupied!
We cooked our first meal and had another surprise – Sonja had made hot bread in cast iron pots on the fire and this was something she did for us every evening. Johnny got his guitar out for a sing-song and altogether the first day and evening were a great start to the hike.
Day 2 – 16,9 kms Tuesday
We had a rain shower in the morning and a beautiful rainbow. We would be returning to our camp site that evening so there was no need to pack up. Sonja gave us the first of her ‘stories’. Each morning she had something to read to us, either motivational or thought-provoking or interesting information about the history or ecology of the area.
 We first went by combi to the Spoeg River mouth and walked to the caves. This was to have been our second camp site but the Spoeg River comes down only every 100 years, and this was the year, so the camp site was too soggy to use. We set off on our day’s hike which was a mixture of sandy track and beaches. We met our donkey carts with four donkeys each, driven by Dawie and Kobus. The donkeys would be with us for the next three days, either on the beach or on the tracks above. They carried our day packs for us and everyone had a chance to ride with them for a few kms. They were invaluable for anyone battling with sore feet, blisters, etc. and wanted to have a little respite.
 There were lots of flowers to be seen on this stretch but the walking was quite hard work with lots of soft sand. The donkey carts were very much appreciated. At lunch time we stopped at a huge dune from the top of which we could dive off. There were plenty of spectacular jumps and some flops but everyone had lots of fun and after they had done their best, Nelis showed us how it should be done!
Day 3 – 14,4 kms Wednesday
This morning we packed up our gear for the move to our second camp site at Koringkorrel Bay. We crept up on a very large colony of seals and were able to get quite close before they migrated to the sea.
 This day was much easier walking on lovely beaches or sandy tracks. The weather was warm and sunny with a light breeze but when we got to Koringkorrel we had our first strong wind and the tents were buffeted about. The camp site was beautiful with stunning views and it was from here that we spotted whales blowing and were able to see them quite clearly. We also spotted a pod of dolphins (or porpoises) and several people braved the icy Atlantic waves for a swim. It became very cold during the night with strong winds but none of the tents blew away.
Day 4 – 15,5 kms Thursday
Weather gorgeous, sunny and calm for most of the day. Sonja’s story was about an inlet called The Milk can which is very dangerous at high tide and a fisherman had been sucked in and never seen again! We examined a dead whale on the beach. It had been there about 6 months and was quite disintegrated. We thought it was a Southern Right but couldn’t be sure. There were a lot of flowers on this part of the walk and we remarked on the clouds of moths settling on them.
After our tea break we took our shoes off and walked in the sea along 6 km of beach. It was very refreshing. The donkeys were on the beach with us and they took our shoes as well as our packs. At one point, Kobus (the driver of the second cart) was sent back by his father to retrieve a cushion that had dropped out on the bumpy ride. Kobus disappeared for ages so Alan and Derek, tired of waiting, decided to take over as driver and co-driver. The donkeys didn’t seem to mind! It was a good thing that Alan and Derek took the initiative as Kobus only re-appeared (without cushion) much later.
Sonja showed us Mossel Bank – a huge pile of mussel shells which scrunched when we walked over them. They shone in the sunlight and the colours sparkled. On one of the beaches we walked there were large outcrops of white marble which were in sharp contrast to the other rocks we saw and almost looked iridescent in the sunshine. We had a jovial last evening at the camp site with Johnny and his guitar. Sonja made vetkoeks instead of bread – they just kept on coming until everyone had their fill, then she produced a pudding! We started to think that the combi was a magic box – we never knew what would appear next!
Day 5 – 11.6 kms Friday
It had turned cold during the night and very windy. We packed up our gear and got ready for our last day’s hiking. Just as we were ready to leave the donkey carts made a grand entrance, skidding to a stop just where some of our tents had previously been. Dawie and Kobus posed with their donkey carts for numerous photos and a fond farewell. The donkeys were leaving us for their 2-day journey back home.
 We all piled into the two combi’s to the same starting point of yesterday, but walking South instead of North to the Groen River mouth. It was quite a hectic drive and Sonja driving the second combi got stuck in the soft sand. We left our packs in the vehicles this time and walked along sandy beaches and rocky cliffs with lovely flowers again. We met Sonja and Wouter (with the packs) at a cormorant colony and had lunch there before the last lap of our hike.
It was along here that we saw the first evidence of previous mining operations in the area, with ruins of buildings, old machinery and abandoned foundations. Fortunately, they are rapidly being absorbed into the land and do not really offend.
We arrived at the Groen River mouth (the river was running – another 100 year event). We had a long drive back to Garies squashed into the two combi’s and were glad to arrive at the Toeristestel where Sonja served us tea or coffee and lovely melktert.
 The group were booked into Sophie’s Guest House in Garies where Sonja, Wouter and Wolly joined us for supper. We had developed a real affection for Sonja and Wouter and a great admiration for the way they operated their Donkie Stap Safari. In turn, they were very complimentary about our group – we were highly organised, didn’t abuse the weight or water requirements and we were just plain nice! After dinner Sonja and Wouter asked Johnny to do The Music Man again for them and Wouter requested Johnny’s version of I’ll Buy You a Rainbow which he know calls ‘The Johnny Song”. As a grand finale, Sonja and Wouter presented each hiker with a certificate, bearing their name, for the successful completion of the Donkie Stap Safari.
Loo with a View
It was a wonderful hiking experience and here are a few of the comments made towards the end:
John and Audrey – very well organised, went like clockwork, things just appeared.
Val and Erich – one of the nicest hikes we have every been on. Hospitality is unreal and the organisation out of this world.
Lucilla and Sally – 5-star hike, didn’t really expect a toilet, we were spoilt rotten with hot water, dust pans and brushes for the sandy tents, wash basins, stools and chairs, hot water in flasks….
Frances – wonderful hospitality and great fellowship. Best of weather. Combi was like a Pandora’s Box, we never knew what was coming out of it. Everyone gelled. Great experience – all the stories, history and games…………
Lorraine and Dan – a little bit of heaven on earth. Very relaxed atmosphere. Beautiful walks. Our hosts went out of their way to make us feel at ease and went the extra mile round the camp fire in the evening with the hot bread and the stories. Donkey’s created a unique and special character to this wonderful 5 day hike. Fellow hikers warm and helpful and good company.
Lynette and Alan – this trip was just food for the soul. So relaxing and full of surprises. Hospitality was incredible and enthusiasm and attention to detail superb. From a nature point of view the area is clean and unspoilt and the weather was perfect.
Johnny and Betty – the way the donkey goes along is something different. We could stop and swim when we liked. The hosts are wonderful people. Good company. No words can describe……
Beate and Piet – enjoyed it all. Different from other hikes. Nice company. Everyone would enjoy it. Maar, o! die seer tone!
Dion and Eileen – the trouble they went to was phenomenal. Beautifully organized and their knowledge of the area made a difference.
Derek and Gretta – was astounded at how varied the scenery was. Pristine. When we walked the 6 km beach the clarity of the water was amazing. Mirage looked like a distant island. Wonderful to see black oystercatchers every day.
Brian and Jill – thought it was wonderful, all our worries about weight and water availability were unfounded and we didn’t expect our hosts to be with us all the time, which added so much more to the experience.
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