Port St Johns to Coffee Bay
7th to 11th August 2006
by Terry Youens
Hikers: Carole Elliott, Brenda Sparke, Lucilla Claasen, Bertha Lazarus, Toni Lazarus,Lesley Youens, Terry Youens ( Leader )
 This trail 60k hike follows the coastline with its secluded beaches and coves , unspoilt estuaries and patches of coastal forest . When the coastline gets too rugged , the route ascends grassy hills and swings inland, where one passes Mpondo and Bomvana villages and homesteads. Excellent examples of mangrove swamps can be seen at the Mngazna and Mtakatye rivers. A very different aspect of this hike is that the hikers were not accommodated in hikers huts but in the Mpondo villages along the route and were accompanied by an award winning guide.
After a 850 km journey we all gathered at the Amapondo Backpackers which turned out to be an excellent choice with good accommodation and an excellent table. Jimmy Selane arrived shortly before 09h00 and we set off immediately. Jimmy was born and bred in Port St Johns and is basically self taught, very relaxed with a pleasing manner with a ready laugh. His favourite saying is " Lets do it " which is his way of saying it's time to move on. In 2004 he was chosen as S.A.'s most promising tour guide and attended a week long International Congress of the World Federation of Tour Guides in Melbourne Australia.
Let me say at the outset that this is not an easy hike. The group rated the hike B+ which means moderate with some demanding sections. Days one and four are taxing.
Port St Johns to Mngazana 12km
The trail starts at Second Beach and proceeds through the Silaka Nature Reserve which stretches southward to a well known landmark aptly named Sugarloaf Rock. To avoid the rocky coastline the trail ascends steeply up Heartbreak Hill ( 200 m with a 1 in 3 gradient) followed by a steep descent to Third Beach at Sugarloaf Rock. The climb up the next hill with a full pack is as challenging as any in the Drakensberg. We reached the Umngazi River Bungalows at 13h30 and took lunch on a splendid covered wooden deck next to the river. The resort is certainly a very up-market place compared to what it was when I was a child and when Lesley and I spent a week here in May 1992.
 The hotel ferry took us across the Mngazi river which is named after the many fierce tribal battles which took place in the valley and the word means river of blood. The last 1,5 km was on un-spoilt beach before reaching the Mnganana river. We were ferried across in two batches as each backpack takes up the same space as a hiker. A kilometer from the river (Jimmy said it was 400 meters but his estimation of distance is a trifle suspect) brought us to the dwelling of our first host Soflina Mbuzeni who came out of her dwelling to welcome us with hands extended. The rondavel contained eight mattresses on a cow dung floor but what caught my eye immediately was a naked electric light bulb hanging from the apex of the hut. One of Soflina's sons offered to buy beer from the local Spaza shop and shortly afterwards I was quaffing a cold Hansa quart for which I had paid R9,00. We had chosen to cook our own food and were in bed at 20h00.
Mgazana to Mpande 10 km
The trail keeps inland because of the rugged coastline and follows a rough gravel track which runs along the crest of the coastal hill, through fields which had been planted with mealies. The trail continues through grasslands with a spectacular view of the sea. A prominent headland called Brazen Head is impassible and forces the trail inland. The trail turns steeply down to the Ndluzula river and then winds its way through a coastal forest . Another steep climb out of this valley and on to the Singawana river which we were able to wade across. For the first time we see Nguni cattle on the beach. A further 1,5 km brings us to the Mpande bay and we reach the hut shortly afterwards .
 The accommodation is 5 star and we even have a separate rondavel for a kitchen/dining area. We had elected to eat the local food on the second and fourth nights and since there was nothing to prepare a few of us went down to the beach for a swim. Dinner was served at 19h00. We were pleasantly surprised at the fare that was dished up by Portia. We were served chicken with cabbage, potatoes and samp with beans. Needless to say we finished the lot. The following morning we were served mealie meal porridge and bread followed by tea and coffee.
After dinner Jimmy told us stories about Nomahamele the cannibal lady and about sangomas. He also related the true history of how a visionary had caused the destruction of all the crops as well as the killing of all the cattle in 1860's which brought about mass starvation amongst the Xhosa people. The visionary was told by the spirit that this action would drive the white man out of their country. This history is well documented. The Xhosa people live amongst their animals. Dogs, sheep, goats, cattle and pigs. An important thing to mention here for future hikers is to make sure that you have a good torch light with spare batteries. This to avoid stepping in the poo on the way to the loo at night. I forgot to mention the free range fowls and the chicks.
Mpande to Mankosi 14 km
Portia's B&B set a standard which was not met on the remainder of the hike. We crossed a small stream and the trail immediately swung inland following a jeep track down to the Mtonga River. A mangrove swamp can be seen from the mouth of the river. Mangrove systems are unparalleled as nursery areas for marine fish fry and are breeding grounds for mullet, grunter, prawns and crabs. It is evident that 4x4’s bundu bash their way to various fishing holes along this coast despite the regulations that are in place. After passing through the Sikelweni village the path drops steeply down to the Mnenu River which we again crossed in a rowing boat.
 On the way down to the ferry Jimmy was joined by what turned out to be the ferryman himself plus two other locals. There was much laughter and I suggested to Jimmy that he was regaling them with stories about the stupid things that the mlungas ask him but he explained that the previous week the ferryman had been swept away in the strong current after the rains and only managed to clamber out of the river near the mouth . Jimmy has a good rapport with the local Pondo people and greets them with "molweni" and "konjane”.
We entered the Hluleka Nature Reserve which is currently closed for renovations and chose to have lunch on the lawn under the trees rather than Jimmy's suggestion that we should break under a tree near the Spaza shop. I think he gets a kick back from the owner who greeted him like a long lost brother when we entered the store.
The view of the valley from the old stone farm house , which is now used as offices, is stunning. A long beach walk followed and was responsible we think for the sore feet experienced by the group. One of the joys of this hike is being the sole occupants of 400 metre long secluded beaches. The overnight accommodation at Mankosi is the farthest from the coast of all the huts and was reached after what seemed like a considerable distance inland. We were all very relieved to be able to flop down after a long day on the trail. No stories from Jimmy tonight because he went to visit a sick friend. After preparing supper we all flopped into bed before the mandatory 20h00 Chairman’s time.
Mankosi to Mdumbi 16km
This was to be a long day and the highlight of the hike lay in wait. The trail heads toward the coast but includes two steep climbs before dropping down to the coast. Two long beach walks were broken by a steep headland which forced the trail inland and from this elevated vantage point it was possible to view the magnificent coastline once again. These views of the Pondoland coast are stunning.
It is at this point that I can fault Jimmy for not taking the tide table into account and stressing the need to reach the Mdumbi river at low tide. As it turned out we arrived to observe a strong flowing river caused by the incoming tide. We observed three rowing boats on the bank of the river but no ferryman in sight. Jimmy clambered up the bank to alert the ferry man who turned out to be a ten year Pondo girl carrying two very dilapidated oars. Needless to say she strode towards the worst of the boats, the one that had been badly patched with fibre glass. What happened next will be remembered by all present whenever this hike is recalled. Brenda, Lucilla and Lesley clambered aboard with back packs leaving our stoic little girl to maneuver the boat off the sand bank and into the fast flowing river . Her level of skill and knowledge of the task at hand belied her young age. She hugged the river bank rowing against the current where the force of the incoming tide was minimal and then at a point further up the bank swung the boat into the current and allowed the force of the tide to sweep the boat down stream aiming at the opposite bank . When the boat struck a sand bank she hopped out pushing the craft into deeper water, jumped back in and then continued rowing until the bank was reached. This feat was accomplished twice more with the rest of us.
It started raining as we made our way up the steep slope towards the Mdumbi Backpackers which belongs to the Verenigde Gereformeerde Kerk. My thoughts went immediately to cold beer but alas only soft drinks were on offer. The accommodation was reached at 17h00.
We were immediately welcomed by Nowetho and were served bread, tea and coffee shortly afterwards. Supper followed and it was time for Jimmy's stories. He chose to tell us about the 'abakwetha ' ceremonies when young boys are initiated into adulthood. The process was described in graphic detail and my advice to any of you men who have not undergone circumcision is to contact the local Rabbi or better still the Glynwood Nursing Home.
Mdumbi to Coffee Bay 0.8km
An early departure was necessary to catch the shuttle to Port St Johns. We took a more direct route to Coffee Bay than is possible but there was a time constraint which precluded us hiking along the cliff tops. We reached the Mtata river which is the boundary between the Pondo people and the Bomvaan tribe. We crossed the river by ferry once again and then walked up a very steep road to the hiking trail at the top .We reached Coffee Bay and a few of us did a quick inspection of the Ocean View Hotel.
 The shuttle took us to Umtata after a considerable delay . The metropolis of Umtata is not a place you would want to spend any time in so we caught the first available taxi to Port St Johns. We again checked into the Amapondo Backpackers and then went driving around the town to see the sights. We were on our way to the Blow Hole and stopped to ask the way. A middle aged African confirmed that we were on the right road but then pointed out that the path to the Blow Hole was very steep and that the passengers in my vehicle looked very old to him. I assured him that these ladies had just hiked 60 km but he did not look convinced. We left Port St Johns at 06h:00 and arrived back home at 17h00.
We recommend the following to ERHC members who want to do this hike next year :
- Cater only for Lunches.
- Don't take a sleeping bag, a light blanket will suffice.
- A gas light with spare cylinders is a good idea.
- Take water purification tablets.
- Get fit for the steep hills
Terry Youens
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