Ribbok Trail: Golden Gate
21 to 24 September 2007
by Sally Jones
Six of us started what I consider to be my toughest hike ever. After the first km we’d played green bottles hanging on a wall and one had fallen off – we only discovered this after waiting for what seemed ages at the overhang. So then there were 5 and off we went up the rock to the top of Brandwag – the views were incredible – rolling hills, big mountains and amazing sandstone formations. It was really magnificent and after enjoying a break we were off once more. But not for long because calamity struck again – my shorts split right up my rear.
I don’t think anyone was behind me because we were going down a hill. Fortunately I had another pair and Tony offered me his sleeping shorts. I sent all the men up ahead and did a quick change – vegetation is quite sparse on the Ribbok trail. For a while we walked along the side of the mountain overlooking the valley and the road, past the hotel and then we disappeared to a place called the Backside – this means no sign of humans. We could really appreciate the beauty of the area as we walked along contour paths between giant ridges of sandstone. We stopped for tea at what should have been a lovely swimming hole – no rain, no water but it was lovely to sit in the shade and identify a Blouslangkop – a lovely blue flower which sprouts from a bulb growing half out of the ground. From here we had a stiff climb up and another down to where we had lunch at the enviro centre. After a good break and filling water bottles we were off, across the road and an easy flat walk to the hut. The guys got the donkey going, showers were had, dinner cooked and eaten and we were all in bed early. The next days hike according to the map was going to be tough. On waking at about 5.30am we found Dave with a beer can in his hand and he was drinking from it. After a couple of shocked reactions we discovered that he had left his mug at home and had fashioned a coffee mug for himself – don’t worry we did inspect and it did contain coffee and not beer !!
We started off bright and early to tackle the first part aptly named “Inbreek”. This was a steady climb with no respite. Our target – General’s Kop – seemed extremely high off the ground and I wondered whether I would ever get there. The steady climb became a steep climb – “Heartbreak” but at the top of this bit we were rewarded with awesome views of Lesotho through the border fence and General’s Kop looked a lot closer. The last part of the climb – “Moetbreek” is certainly appropriately named. Poor Dave had really battled with his knees all the way up and was really glad that we decided not to go right to the top of the General. The wind had come up and was blowing gales so we started off down – “Kneebreek” is certainly a good name for that bit. Then Dragon’s Back beckoned. The wind was howling and I was battling to stay on my feet. The thought had occurred to put rocks in my backpack to stop me blowing away. Even the guys were battling and after a particularly strong gust which had me crouched and clinging to a rock I decided to go round the mountain instead of over it.
The guys carried on and finished on the path and John and I walked down to the road and back to camp that way – even there it was difficult to stay on my feet and I was very glad that no one saw me weaving down the road like a drunk. This was a really awesome hike, very tough but worth every step. Thank you Toni for being so patient. I’m sure Dave, Kevin and John enjoyed it as much as I did.
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