Slagthoek Basecamp - Day Trails
15 to 17 July 2011
By Stuart Simpson
Participants: Alex Alshove, Elaine Deyzel, Tonie, Bertha and Sebastiaan Lazarus, Eddie Grant, Annetjie Herbst (prospective member); Rudolf Weyers, Stefanie Leach, Sean Nel and Carina Schwarz, Johan Marais and last but not least, Stuart Simpson (The Author).
A note from the hike leaders: We were actually booked on the Kingdom part of what is known as the Olifants Gorge hiking trail, which is on the opposite side of the Olifants River. But on the Monday before we were to leave for the hike, Gretta received a message – the road is very bad! Two wheel drive vehicles will not be able to get to the overnight camp, but will have to park at some gate and then go to the site with the 4x4’s in the group. Nobody had, or used, their 4x4’s. This is now the second time this has happened. What a cheek! However, over the next few days the agents (Anvie) managed to change the hike to the Slagthoek side, with the road being much better. One of the group decided to test the other road, but got stuck, and miraculously a few locals appeared out of the bush and helped to push the car out of the sand! When we got to the overnight camp, the hikers already there were very excited. Why? They had seen Giraffe, Zebra, Warthog, Black Wildebeest and Rhino – but it turned out to be a rock!!
From the Slagthoek base camp the entrapped hiker may be enticed to venture out for the night to some of the other camps offered namely the Klipkraal camp, Grootdraai camp and Kingdom camp.
Slagthoek base camp is an old farmhouse in the middle of nowhere, or 26 km off the tar road, not too far from Middleburg, on the way to Groblersdal. The accommodation was more than adequate, bunk beds placed in several rooms, 2 bathrooms, kitchen, large lounge and a lovely veranda on which everybody congregated. Hot water, for a shower or a brown muddy bath, was provided by means of a donkey, providing one lets the water warm up. Some had lukewarm showers, the rest of us had fantastically hot showers.
The signs to the farm are rather on the small side and one had to keep a good eye out for them, but once on the farm they improved. On arrival at the gate a code was handed out to gain access of which I found a simpler way: 2 turns to the left of the simple piece of wire that held a short stretch of thick chain and a multiplicity of expensive pad-locks.
Saturday
What more could a hiker ask for than a crisp, clear blue sky, and the sun just coming up on the highveld. We headed off into the wild yonder on the GOD’S WINDOW ROUTE (12km), past the palm tree that was so out of place it looked more like a cell-phone tower in the middle of the African bush. And then straight into a swampy mud patch just to remind us that we are still hikers. Our young leader Sebastian took us up to the top of the koppie, to a marvellous viewpoint overlooking parts of the Olifants River, snaking through the gorge at least 700meters below us. Moving on past some zebra, we headed almost straight down into one of the smaller valleys, and then cut across to our 2nd viewpoint, which was, give or take, only 300meters below our 1St viewpoint, but hiking wise, a few km away. What great views were enjoyed by all. Hitting the old jeep track, and heading down, a slight planned detour, we stopped for lunch on the banks of the clear emerald green Olifants River. The last stretch home reminded me of my youth, scrambling up riverbeds, not difficult or tricky, but enough to keep one’s mind from wandering. This tributary opened up on to a plateau with it’s reed grass way taller than any one of us, and then sighting the palm tree, which meant that we were back home at 2 o’ clock. Somebody shortchanged us, this 12km hike turned out to be one of only 9.5km.
Sunday
Once again with a beautiful day, the sun shining and with a slight wind that was as cold as a witch’s breath, we set off on the track. Ten minutes later, we were greeted by three of the most elegant giraffes watching us – two adults and a little one. They crossed our path and we crossed their path to carry on into an open valley with its golden brown grass, warming up in the morning sunlight. Heading slightly to the left we started a decent into a beautiful small gorge to follow the river downward. Finding some lovely pools along the way we were constantly asking ourselves, “is this the waterfall?” The waterfall eventually did show itself pretty and petite. Further on Alex mentioned that this is the “Cycad Loop” and that he had not seen a single cycad! The trail then crossed the stream, turning up the side of the hill and the cycads appeared one after another, with their young, dark green leaves and were now dotted all over. Up and out of the vale and on to the plateau we went, wandering what will be next. Passing through a clump of trees, we found ourselves standing on the edge of the escarpment overlooking the mighty Olifants River, hundreds of meters below. From this vantage point one can see the other two Kingdom camps far off in the distance. Down by the river two fish eagles gave us all a good show as they were flying around – most probably hunting. Our next section to conquer was the “Lost City” – but we could not get lost as every second rock had a marker painted on it. Descending down the hill to the house we knew that we had done our bit, lightened our load - burdens, that had taken our minds off the mundane day-to-day events, relaxed and enjoyed.
I myself found this to be a magnificent part of our land to be wandering around in and not too far from home. But what made this trip even more spectacular were the people that I had the pleasure of hiking with.
Happy hiking and good health to all. Hope to see you soon.
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