Drakensberg Backpack – Monks Cowl Area
Stable and Zulu Caves - 19 to 22 March 2010
By Elaine Deyzel
Participants: Ian and Jo Goddard (leaders), Alex Elshove, Kevin Healey, Jenny Olivier, Erica Meyer and Elaine Deyzel.
On arrival at Inkosana Lodge on the first day, we all relaxed for a few hours before preparing our braai. Kevin surprised us with a lovely starter served in wine glasses and we ended our meal with a delicious apple pie with cream provided by Jo.
 We left Inkosana Lodge at about 7 a.m. on Saturday morning, heading for the Drakensberg Sun Hotel, where the cars were parked. We each carried extra water containers as water at Stable Cave isn’t always available and we would need water for preparing meals, washing and drinking for that night, as well as the next morning.
A wide, steadily ascending grassy path led us to the start of the 11km trail to Stable Cave. After a short rest, we continued on our way, following the markers in the direction of Cleo’s Pools, van Damm’s Cascades and Jacob’s Ladder. The weather was lovely and cool but the going tricky, because of the slippery path. We soon looked like a circus act - with ballerinas, skaters, acrobats, tumblers and quite a few windmill look-alikes with flailing arms – making our way along the slick, overgrown path.
On arrival at van Damm’s Cascades we filled our extra water containers and had our tea break. Further along this path we encountered a tricky river crossing which the ladies negotiated inch by slippery inch in the sitting position. The men were braver and did it with a hop, SKID and a jump. We continued on our way, following Jacob’s Ladder, a zig-zag ever-rising contour path with magnificent views across valleys to the massive buttresses of the High ’Berg. Lunch was enjoyed on this path with Cathkin Peak towering above us.
 As we neared Stable Cave thunder rolled across the mountains and just enough rain began to fall to convince us to put our pack covers on. Of course, as soon as the covers were on, it stopped raining! We reached Stable Cave at about 3 p.m. and proceeded to unpack and arrange our sleeping bags in clearly demarcated “rooms”. In the first cave – referred to as “Lower Houghton”, Jenny, Erica and I made ourselves comfortable and further along in the “slum area”
Ian, Jo, Alex and Kevin settled in for the night, their “cave” being a massive overhang. We had wonderful views across the wide valleys and could see “The Bell” almost directly opposite the cave. Fortunately for us, we had reached the cave just in time as it began to pour! Supper was prepared on a huge rock slab “table” and directly afterwards we all opted for an early night as it had become rather chilly.
Sunday morning saw us up bright and early and after a quick breakfast we left Stable Cave at about 7.15 a.m. The 13 km hike to Zulu Cave began almost immediately with a long ascent to the contour path. Once we’d reached the top we were rewarded with breathtaking views of the early morning light bathing the never-ending expanse of mountain peaks in spectacular hues of light and shadow.
At Hlathikulu Neck a well-deserved tea break was had. Although the path was a contour path, it remained slippery and had a few short, steep ascents along the way. The areas close to the rivers and streams are badly overgrown, making the paths even more difficult to negotiate, and this caused quite a bit of pirouetting, tumbling, windmilling and skating!
After a particularly long, slippery descent we eventually arrived at our lunch spot – a large, flat rock with a lovely waterfall on the one side, which cascaded into the river flowing from the other side. Blissfully unaware of what lay just ahead of us, we finished our lunch and removed our boots to cross the river as the rushing water was knee-deep. Boots on again, we obediently followed Kevin up what can only be described as a four metre high grass “wall” with no footholds (none that I could find anyway!) The comments on the way up? “Oh sh.. (shoot)”, Ian, isn’t there another way?” “Just hold onto the clumps of grass and pull yourself up!” “Whose idea was this anyway?” and “oh, there’s the path!” This particular part of the hike was later named “The Kevin Crawl.” Having all survived we continued on our way and eventually arrived at Zulu Cave at about 2.30 p.m.
Zulu Cave is a huge rock overhang with a thundering waterfall slap in the middle. After we’d each found our spot for the night, some opted for an icy cold shower under the waterfall, Ian decided to relax and read (clever man), Jo went looking for a pool in the river to bathe in and Erica, Jenny and I decided to accompany Kevin and Alex in search of the illusive “Kat Cave” and its amazing rock art.
Watching Kevin and Alex slipping on boulders into the river, getting their boots wet and then almost sliding over the edge to who knows where, Jenny, Erica and I decided to return to the cave. Exhausted and grimy, Jenny and Erica opted for a “bucket bath” while I took the “waterfall shower”. Kevin and Alex had decided that Alex, with some assistance from Kevin, would be the one to enter Kat Cave and he returned with some awesome photos of the rock art. Having enjoyed an early supper we were all in bed by 7 p.m. Lightning lit up the inside of the cave and the waterfall sounded like booming surf, but nothing could keep seven exhausted backpackers awake.
After a quick breakfast on Monday morning, we started the 15km hike back to Monk’s Cowl at 6.45 a.m. Within ten minutes of leaving the cave we were confronted by an almost vertical grassy bank and a feeling of déjà vu crept over me. This time the comments were “This one isn’t as steep as Kevin’s Crawl”, and “At least there are some footholds” (where?) This early-morning surprise was named “Goddards Way”. Needless to say we all managed to crawl up safely and continued on our way along the ever-ascending, slippery, overgrown path. A brisk pace was set and despite the fact that intense concentration was needed to remain upright on the treacherous trail, we still closely resembled a circus act. I couldn’t get the tune “Slip, Sliding Away” out of my head. As we approached the river we almost disappeared in the bracken, brambles and reeds and Ian had to call out directions from the rear, Alex and Kevin having vanished by then. We eventually arrived at the river crossing where we regrouped and had a much-deserved rest. Not for long, though. The path rose sharply on the far bank and eventually being on the level ground didn’t improve matters as the path often became a deeply-eroded ditch and we’d have to walk next to it on long clumps of grass.
Eventually arriving at Hlathikulu Neck we had tea and watched as thick mist came rolling over the mountains which quickly disappeared from sight. Fortunately we’d had lovely cool weather the entire weekend. After tea we continued along the contour path towards Blind Man’s Corner where we had a short break and braced ourselves for the downhill slog known as Keartland’s Pass. This part of the trail can only be described as a 5km staircase, and we were descending this knee-jarring, muscle-wrenching monster. Hours of grunting and groaning later, we rested for lunch in a cool grove beside a small waterfall. As we neared the end of the trail, rolling thunder followed us and the last 20 minutes was done in pouring rain and even a bit of hail. A fitting end to a truly challenging hike!
For those looking for more than a walk in the park and enjoy a more demanding, but immensely satisfying experience – look no further! Once the blisters, bruises and aching muscles have healed, one is left with a real sense of achievement and memories of the breathtaking beauty that is the Drakensberg. To our two capable and inspiring leaders, Ian and Jo, thank you for an unforgettable experience!
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